It just wipes on, dries overnight and doesn’t require a sprayer. They are fast, light-weight and do a nice job. Copyright © 2020 Ploughshare Institute for Sustainable Culture. When I build drawers I usually use poplar, birch, maple...whatever is cheap and handy. Now you can re-oil just like the first coat. I like to start sanding at 220 grit on the wood if it’s pretty smooth. [4] The word "tung" is etymologically derived from the Chinese 桐 tóng. I remember the round one that Frank built a few years ago, and I thought that was a huge undertaking, but this thing is really something. After the finish is dry, I sand lightly by hand with 320 grit sandpaper. Please don’t ask how I know that. Oak, on the other hand, stains very well. [1] The oil and its use are believed to have originated in ancient China and appear in the writings of Confucius from about 400 BC. By using our Services or clicking I agree, you agree to our use of cookies. [citation needed]. If there seems to be dust stuck on, I will wipe it with a clean dry rag. [citation needed] Second, after it cures (5 to 30 days, weather/temperature related), the result is a very hard and easily repaired finish, so it is used on boat decks and now on floors. I’m going to drive up from Austin one day to see it, I hope. Enjoy a 3 day “winter spell” and stay warm. But I'm worried about uneven stains, which people say poplar is prone to. The major fatty acids in tung oil and their concentration are listed in the table. The choice of thinner should be guided by how fast the coating needs to set. Personally, I'd go with tru-oil. The name is often used by paint and varnish manufacturers as a generic name for any wood-finishing product that contains the real tung oil or provides a finish that resembles the finish obtained with tung oil. Tung oil is the "oil" mentioned in the oil-paper umbrella,[citation needed] which is used to protect the paper from getting wet, and to make the umbrella waterproof. Tung oil hardens upon exposure to air (through polymerization), and the resulting coating is transparent and has a deep, almost wet look. I hope this is helpful to you all, and I will be trying to do some more of these coming soon. That's some gorgeous grain on that poplar! I was thinking tung oil maybe? Most of it will soak in, and then I wipe it all off nearly dry. Heating tung oil to about 500 °F (260 °C)[13] in an oxygen-free environment will substantially increase the viscosity and film-forming quality of the product. How about shellac or water based products or both. The Windsor chair is Oak with Maple legs and Basswood seat. I'm building a bed out of poplar which will be receiving a generous application of espresso. Naphtha works well in spray-on applications in well-ventilated studios. The dust largely blows right away and I wear a standard dust mask for what’s left floating. Cookies help us deliver our Services. [citation needed] Limonene and D-limonene are less toxic alternatives for mineral spirits. Most of it will soak in, and then I wipe it all off nearly dry. Re: Natural Finish for Poplar Well...if you don't want it to yellow then rule out pretty much anything with an oil base, although tung oil is more reasonable than BLO. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. As long as your patient with it, it leaves a gorgeous finish. Dilutents range from traditional spirits of turpentine to any of the new citrus-based thinners to naphtha. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast, More posts from the woodworking community. Is the canned version anything like the hand-made one? Tung oil is almost colorless and won’t darken the wood as much as something with boiled linseed oil in it, but you can always stain it if you need a darker shade. That “paint-grade” classification also means that Poplar is not ideal for staining. Poplar is what we in the paint and stain industry refer to as a “paint-grade” wood. Dilute it with mineral oil, maybe? The rags must be disposed of carefully in view of their ability to spontaneously ignite and cause a fire. Love the tung oil finish. At this point I’m hoping to get the table finished by the end of March. I got a board with a good color and a fiery-looking grain that I really like (pic that doesn't quite do it justice), and would like to bring it out more. It seems like it would need to be it applying a clear finish. Walnut oil is the same product you’ll find next to olive oil in the grocery store. It's actually a pretty similar process to tung oil. The primary constituent is a fatty acid with a chain of 18 linked carbon atoms or methylene units containing three conjugated double bonds. The surface is wiped clean with a moistened rag, then allowed to dry. Agreed with your first statement - my first thought was "best stain is a dark one to hide it!" but that piece is nice. The oil-paper umbrella is the traditional umbrella used in China, Japan, and other countries in the sinosphere, and was brought to Western countries through the Silk Road. Raw tung oil is often more expensive than other oils, so it is usually used on smaller wood projects. So to get on with the how-to part: I generally plane or scrape my pieces with card or cabinet scrapers prior to finish sanding. As long as your patient with it, it leaves a gorgeous finish. I don’t really worry about a little fine dust because the finish will be wiped off again anyway. Do you have a preferred brand/supplier? There's lots of tutorials online about how to apply it. He used a personal variant of Maloof finish, which is an oil-varnish blend that's heavier on the oil than the varnish. The three common oils used for waterproofing wood are linseed, walnut, and tung. The polymerized oil is then applied thickly as a single layer, allowed to fully dry, is buffed smooth with very fine sandpaper, then 0000 steel wool. There's lots of tutorials online about how to apply it. That's some gorgeous grain on that poplar! There are oil based stains, water based stains, water and alcohol based dyes, gel stains, etc. Tung oil finishes that start with polymerized oils or tung oil preparations are best applied in the fat over lean principle: thinned pure oil is applied to deeply penetrate the surface, to fill pores. [3] During the Song Dynasty, tung oil was used for waterproofing on ships. Primary coats may be laid down at a 1:1 oil-to-thinner ratio, and successive layers, if not absorbed into the wood, at higher solvent to oil concentrations. Most often, I do my sanding with a Random Orbital (RO) sander. No, it didn’t snow like this here, but I did take the picture, and I was chilly so I thought it might be fitting. They are especially sensitive to autoxidation, which encourages cross linking of neighbouring chains, hence hardening of the base resin. available in a wide variety of colors and tones. [14], China wood oil; lumbang oil; tung oil paraformaldehyde; tungmeal; tungoel, Except where otherwise noted, data are given for materials in their. Is it solid oak? Related drying oils include linseed, safflower, poppy, and soybean oils. If you want more of a satin sheen, then when you have done 4-5 coats and it’s nice and shiny, you can rub down the gloss with a bit of steel wool (#0000) and then polish with a cotton rag. Tung oil is very popular today because of two properties: first, it is a naturally derived substance. I would expect a good oil finish to take two weeks to properly build up. This is where most folks go wrong with it, they don’t wipe it dry enough and any thick spots won’t dry right. Raw tung oil tends to dry to a fine, wrinkled finish; the English name for this is gas checking; this property was used to make wrinkle finishes, usually by adding excess cobalt drier. On the first coat of oil (while wearing gloves) I like to soak the wood well with the Tung Oil and let it set for about 10-15 min. One point on steel wool is that if the oil is sticky at all in the corners, nooks and crannies, the metal wool fragments and bits will stick in there and are difficult to get out. When applied in many fine/thinner coats over wood, tung oil slowly cures to a matte/light satin look with slight golden tint. It seems to be winter again here for a few days. Thank you Dave, I have been using Minwax brand Tung Oil. Again beware of your rags, spontaneous combustion is not normally explosive, it just happens after you leave the shop in most cases. Its for indoors and probably doesn't need a lot of protection. I'd be thinking along the same lines. /r/woodworking is your home on reddit for furniture, toys, tools, wood, glue, and anything else that has to do with woodworking as a hobby or profession. Please submit links to how-to pages and videos, pictures of beautiful and amazing pieces you made for us to admire, or help you finish. Tung oil is very popular today because of two properties: first, it is a naturally derived substance. Now, Poplar is an absolutely perfect choice if your plans are to prime and paint your wood. I receive a lot of questions on finishing wood, so I thought I’d try to give a few pointers for folks who only wish to finish one or two projects without buying a whole commercial shop set up for finishing. [2], The tung oil tree originates in southern China and was cultivated there for tung oil, but the date of cultivation remains unknown. [5] The earliest references for Chinese use of tung oil is in the writings of Confucius around 500 to 400 BC[6][7][8][9]. Please make sure you are doing it safely and carefully with fresh air and wearing whatever Personal Protective Equipment you need. Let the piece dry again overnight before re-coating. This first coat needs to dry for at least two days, and a week is better. Oily rags commonly start fires and should be handled with great care. A final coat is applied fairly thickly (the oil will smooth itself into a glass-like coating) and allowed to dry for two to three days. You do not want to cut through the finish back to bare wood. This is where most folks go wrong with it, they don’t wipe it dry enough and any thick spots won’t dry right. seat, legs and spindles? I generally don’t stain—I simply prefer natural wood color and grain patterns. My old standby finish was Deft Oil, which was great, but they stopped making it so I have been looking at some other options. I think any oil-based finish will really bring out the grain but I like the look of this table finished using Waterlox: This is the best looking poplar build I've ever come across (not mine): http://imgur.com/a/S6nxc. Tung oil resists liquid water better than any other pure oil finish and does not darken noticeably with age. Also enjoying your updates on the mesquite table. I also outfitted it with a coil hose so that the hose stays out of the way. It is claimed to be less susceptible to mould than linseed oil.[11]. Poplar, for example, doesn't always accept the typical oil based stains (such as Minwax) very evenly and can turn out blotchy. I hadn't heard of Maloof finish, but I was glad to discover that you can just buy it, and not deal with boiling bees wax..!

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