How To Test The Starter Motor (Honda 1.5L, 1.6L), How To Test The Alternator (Honda 1.5L, 1.6L), “I am not afraid of death, I just don’t want to be there when it happens.”Woody Allen, Home | 1.) The magazine automotive repair shop owners and technicians read first to learn about the latest tools and equipment in the automotive aftermarket that can increase productivity in the shop and maximize billable hours. But when I turn on headlights, then it goes up ... 6 mo. So figure that's the max. Even the "Standards & Service Limits" page gives the length of the brushes inside the alternator when new, but NOTHING about the output current of it. The negative should be tested from battery negative to the alternator case. ALTERNATOR TEST 1: Testing Battery Voltage With A Multimeter. No further testing is required, since this multimeter test result eliminates the alternator on your Honda Civic as bad. I tried multiple times and it is consistently so. Jeep | When you do the test on your Honda Civic, it will be an On Car Test, so don't remove the alternator from the car. He jumped it and the This voltage test result tells you that the alternator is working (charging the battery). This is a clear indication that your Honda Civic's alternator IS NOT charging the battery. OK, to get this show on the road, the first thing you'll do is to test the battery's voltage with the engine running. Even way back then, I kept saying "You have to know your OPPONENT". Top. The ELD monitors load and there is feedback to the alternator's voltage regulator. 2.) it lost power.
May 1, 2011 #1 Left my lights on today @ work. Chrysler | The car won't crank. © 2011-2020 Abraham Torres-Arredondo The eld was used for high electrical load compensation. Staff member. I've had two within the past couple months sent by AAA for charging problems. This simple and easy multimeter test will let you know if the alternator is indeed charging the battery or not. If I remember correctly. JavaScript is disabled. the voltage meter says 12.08 voltage, I've changed the How To Test The Alternator (2001-2005 1.7L Honda Civic), TEST 1: Battery Voltage Test With Engine Running, TEST 2: Checking The Continuity Of The Bat (+) Cable, Cómo Probar El Alternador (2001-2005 1.7L Honda Civic). Replacing the alternator at this point usually solves around 90% of the No Charge conditions on any 1.6L Honda Civic around the world. It will only crank and start if you jump start your Civic. 9 hours later, I go to leave and it is dead as a … CASE 2: Your multimeter registered a voltage that steadily dropped down to 9 Volts. With the engine still running, you need to turn everything on, inside your Honda Civic, that you can possibly turn on. So take all necessary safety precautions. For the first test of the two, go to: TEST 2: Checking The Continuity Of The Bat (+) Cable. Put an electrical load on the alternator to further confirm that it's either charging or not charging. CASE 2: Your multimeter registered a voltage that steadily dropped down to 9 Volts. Tools | Your 1.7L Honda Civic's alternator fulfills two basic requirements: One is to charge the battery so that you crank and start the car each and every time you need to. Hondata. Probe the positive battery terminal with the red multimeter test lead. When you turn the ignition key to the "Start" position, electrical power is supplied to the starter, and the engine turns over. OK, let's interpret your multimeter test results in the next page. pump up the voltage stupid huh. Or 12.5 Volts that will decrease the longer the engine stays running. The rpm guage and wa … read more. With the multimeter test leads, probe the battery terminals. However, when I test the voltage when the engine is off, it is at 12.55V. For instance, a 100A alternator has a “rated” output of 100A, which means that it is capable of providing 100A when the alternator shaft is rotating at 6,000 RPM. The battery on your Honda Civic has to be fully charged, to be able to successfully accomplish this multimeter test. I have the dimming lights, the crazy speedo, while running the voltage meter says 12.08 voltage, I've changed the fuse box and the alternator and the engine light stays on. As you grow older, it’ll avoid you.”Joey Adams, Home | All Rights Reserved.
Or 12.5 Volts DC that will steadily decrease as long as the engine is running. On these newer systems where the sensor is on the negative terminal that. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. The A/C will initially work and then the PCM commands it to de-activate (making you think you've got A/C compressor problems). ), as you're driving down the road. Honda | © 2020 CarGurus, Inc., All Rights Reserved. Why? I suggest two more easy tests to be absolutely sure it is bad.
Thinking about it, it can kill it just as bad this way because it overworks with the voltage drain. I also appreciate the systems such as the Ford products that report commanded and actual regulator control. Put an electrical load on the alternator to further confirm that it's either charging or not charging. Be careful, the engine will be running. 2.) Ugh, stupid Honda. Albin, these are the pids I look at when I'm dealing with a Honda. Now, if you're having to jump-start the car to get it going, this test result points to a bad battery or a parasitic drain. This material may not be reproduced without the author’s consent. like a window putting down then it tells the pcm to One last thing before we start, you'll notice that the photos I'm using in this article show the alternator off of the Honda Civic but this is just to make the explanation of the test easier. engine is warm, drive around town for :10 min. 10+ Year Member. For example, turn on the A/C or Heater on high and then eyeball the multimeter. 9 hours later, I go to leave and it is dead as a door nail. Now the electrical demand is increased by turning on the headlamps. Then turn on the windshield wipers on high, and again take a look at your multimeter. Honda has been using the ELD as the go between for years on their charging systems and they behave in pretty much the same way as described above. 2.) I understand that battery voltage should be around 14v by alternator's charging when engine running. There have been instances where these alternators have been replaced for no charge output at idle. It doesn't change the alternator control / output. My car shows 12.5v even though engine is running. The other is to provide the electrical current for everything that requires it (think radio, blower motor, headlights, etc. The charge light (also known as the battery light) will be shining nice and bright on your Civic's instrument cluster. As you're keeping an eye on your multimeter's display screen, this is what you'll see:
You can accurately test the alternator on your 1.7L equipped Civic DX, EX, or LX with a multimeter. pump out 12.3 volts unless a new load shows up Now, if the battery is completely dead on your Civic, you'll need to charge it up enough so that the car can idle for about 5 to 10 minutes (while you perform the test). Disclaimer. Jeep | All Rights Reserved. Your purchase helps support my work in bringing you real diagnostic testing information to help you solve the problem! This is a clear indication that your Honda Civic's alternator IS NOT charging the battery. Its the eld system for the hondas makes our alt only
Your multimeter will show you one of two things (as you turn on all of this stuff):
The alternator control on the 2012 Civic consists of single wire Lin bus controlled alternator, a battery load sensor, the instrument cluster and the PCM. I suggest two more easy tests to be absolutely sure it is bad. If the alternator is outputting max voltage but the battery is sucking up the voltage for charging, the system voltage will drop lower than normal until the battery is fully charged. voltage control unit issue? When looking for how to replace a battery, I learn a few more things about alternator and battery voltage. Content will be removed if CarGurus becomes aware that it violates our policies. Will put it here even though it is in the link under the avatar. As an Amazon Associate, I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases from the Amazon product links from this website. GM | The charge light (also known as the battery light) will be shining nice and bright on your Civic's instrument cluster. Welcome to the wonderful world of Honds's ELD (electronic load detector), Honda Civic Gen Tech and Builds / Show Offs. Honda | At an idle with an adequately charged battery and no load the alternator shows no charging voltage increase. Vocational, Technical or Trade Scho. Not only that, it's easy and fast and in this tutorial, I'll show you how in a step-by-step way. 1998 Honda Civic low voltage problem 1 Answer. Thanks in advance. I called a buddy to come to jump my car. Replacing the alternator at this point usually solves around 90% of the No Charge conditions on any 1.7L Honda Civic … Hondata wrote:The ELD input only provides an idle up for the engine. The closest thing I found is that the main fuse coming from the alternator to the car's electrical system is 125A. This article will show you how to do a simple alternator test on your Honda Civic with a simple multimeter. Honda has been using the eld system since the mid 90's. The idle may get high when you come to a stop. A steady 13.5 to 14.5 Volts DC. car started up and I made my way back to my apar... Will a 1998 honda civic alternator fit a 2006 civic? Re: Dropping Alternator Charge Voltage - ELD Enable/Disable. Post by MacLotus » Sun Apr 20, 2014 7:53 pm. Probe the positive battery terminal with the red multimeter test lead.
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